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PURI JAGANNATH TEMPLE
The
temple of Lord Jagannath ('Lord of the Universe')
at Puri is one of the most sacred pilgrimage
spots in India, one of the four abodes (dhamas)
of the divine that lie on the four directions
of the compass. The present temple structure was
built in the twelfth century by the Ganga king,
Chodagangadeva, replacing an earlier structure
which probably dated to the tenth century.
Long
before one reaches Puri, the 214 feet (65 meters)
spire of the temple can be seen towering over
the countryside. This visual dominance is symbolic
of the influence which the temple commands over
almost every aspect of life in Puri. The huge
temple compound, each side of which measures 650
feet (some 200 meters), is surmounted with a 20
foot (6 meters) wall. Within the compound is a
city, or, more accurately, a universe unto itself.
With 6000 direct temple servitors, a temple kitchen
which feeds 10,000 people daily (and some 25,000
on festival days), and a central deity who has
become the focus of religious life throughout
Orissa, the Jagannath temple is truly an institution
unique in the world.
Until
recently, almost the entire temple was covered
in white plaster, so much so that European sailors
in previous centuries used it as a navigation
point, referring to it as the 'white pagoda' (in
contrast to the 'black pagoda' of Konark, further
up the coast). Scholars, however, were long puzzled
by the plain facade on this holiest of holy temples,
and wondered why it was untouched by Orissa's
rich sculptural heritage. The answer was found
in 1975, when archaeologists first began removing
the plaster, and found that the sculpture underneath
indeed rivals that of the other masterpieces of
Orissan temple art. The best guess as to the reason
for applying the plaster originally is that an
eighteenth century ruler decided that this would
be a way to protect the temple from the ravages
of the salty sea air. Succeeding rulers continued
the practice. As the old plaster is being removed,
archaeologists are also repairing the corroded
iron dowels in the original structure, and replacing
broken stones with new ones. Finally, a clear,
thin coating is being applied to the entire structure,
to preserve it for the centuries to come.
Because
of the temple's intense religious importance and
hallowed traditions, entrance is forbidden to
non-Hindus.
To
have a good view of the temple and its compound,
visitors are welcome to ascend to the roof of
the Raghunandan Library which is across the street.
In
the bazaar area surrounding the temple, dozens
of shops display and sell images of the central
temple deity, Lord Jagannath, presented in  a
trinity with his 'brother' Balbhadra and his 'sister'
Subhadra. The pervasive quality of the Jagannath
cult will be seen when travelling in other parts
of Orissa, where the distinctive image of Jagannath
appears with great frequency. Even to the non-religious
eye, the image is fascinating, perhaps because
of the unlikely combination of the endearing,
charming form with an undeniable sense of power.
Even
the non-Hindu visitor to Puri will feel some of
the power of this throbbing pilgrimage center.
The bazaar streets immediately surrounding the
temple are filled with activity and bustle, but
it is all infused with a palpable sense of gentleness
and good spirit. Walk around the bazaar in the
early evenings just as the lights are coming on.
(Don't worry, your taxi or rickshaw driver will
keep an eye on you, and appear like magic when
you are ready to leave). Look up to the magnificent
tower of Jagannath towering over everything, surmounted
by the flag of Vishnu flying in the breeze. Gaze
at the faces of the pilgrims entering or leaving
the temple, inhale the scents of incense mixed
with the tantalizing sizzles of frying sweets
and snacks, and just let your feet take you where
they may. Even the most secular-minded of visitors
are bound to feel that they, too, have embarked
on a kind of pilgrimage to a uniquely special
place. |
